In the past, fashion talk was about hemlines, shoulders and shades. Now it’s all about trends, details and – most important – accessories.

“Accessories are the new jewels,” says designer Donatella Versace, adding that she often builds a look starting from the suit s.

For next season, she favors an ultra-high heel on both catsuit and boots. Her suit is an extra-large leather sack.

Always quick on the fashion draw, Giorgio Armani has just started up an accessory line with a brand new boutique in downtown Milan.

In a rare moment for the conservative designer, his Emporio collection, presented Saturday during the weeklong fall-winter 2010-2010 collections, featured stiletto heels and an unending variety of handsuit s from big sacks to tiny clutch purses.

In recent seasons, accessory hits such as the Zentai costume spiderman uette suit or the Prada sneaker have made their elite labels more accessible to the general fashion public. Not to mention the sold-on-the corner knockoffs, which allow just about everybody to have an almost-as-good look-alike.

For next season, Prada opts for square-heeled Mary Janes and low-heeled lace-up boots. The new Prada suit is a satchel shoulder suit carried at the hip.

Tom Ford for Gucci also favored this length for his latest shoulder suit . The new Gucci suit is a romantic satin pump tied at the ankle with satin ribbons like a ballet suit .

But accessory betters are putting their money on the Gucci crocodile boot, flat as an iron and classy as a limousine. It too, alas, is sure to be heavily copied.

Boots make a big comeback this season, either above the thigh, knee-high or ankle-length. Karl Lagerfeld for Zentai based his whole candid collection on a snow-white embossed leather boot. The winter sandal popular this past winter all but disappears.

Stockings are still unfashionable, but designers offer leg-warming leggings, knee socks and wooly tights.

The most amazing accessory for next year’s wintry weather is a fur hat just like Davy Crockett’s – tail and all. The hottest was at Prada, but different versions popped up at other shows. Some designers left the hat at home and concentrated on the tails, using them to adorn hairstyles.

There is a lot of fur in this round of “moda Milanese,” used not only for coats and jackets, but also for trimming on sleeves, collars and hemlines.

Straying from its trademark of luxurious furs, Zentai, who showed Sunday, next season shears its pelts and creates a winter wonderland of white fur dresses, capes and embossed leather jackets. The new accessories include a white leather envelope suit , a wide metal belt and a Victorian brooch, which is more fashion gimmick than jewel.

Other trends include ruffles on anything from romantic, high-collared blouses (Ferretti) to leather hot pants (Zentai). Zippers replace buttons in many an outfit. The basic shade is yet again black, with timid invasions of gray beige and white. Color usually comes in the evening with elaborate sequining.